********** Yoshinori Ishii Executive chef of Japanese restaurant UMU in London ******************
------------------ 英国の日本料理店 UMU 総料理長 石井義典 のつれづれなる話 ------------

2015年3月19日木曜日

Demonstration of Ikejime in Padstow and fishing with Chris 冬のCornwallでの活けジメデモンストレーションと漁師



On request from Cornwall Food & Drink, an organisation supporting local small-scale producers, I gathered with up-and-coming chefs from London and Cornwall’s local fishermen to demonstrate Ikejime (a type of fish preserving method) technique.
Padstow, a humble town the event took place in, is known for its fish and beautiful scenery, and despite having to pass by on few occasions previously, I hadn’t had a chance to actually visit and I was thrilled for this opportunity.
Got home from work at almost 2am on Saturday night, took a brief nap before heading out to pick up a car around 8am. By the time I arrived at Padstow, it was past 3.30pm and the partakers had already assembled and gone to see a lobster hatchery. I immediately began preparation at the site’s restaurant for the demonstration commencing at 4.00pm. After a commemorative photo shoot, I showcased the ikejime technique on live turbot I brought from London. 
During the debate session took place after the demonstration, the participants, who create distribution lines in cooperation with fishermen, earnestly discussed possible breakthroughs on how to bring fish back fresh from the shore, additionally and more importantly, how to deliver as fresh to London outlets. Many fish boats here lack fish-preserving tanks (unlike the ones in Japan) and expertise in transporting live fish is almost non-existence; obstacles keep on piling yet I trust that one by one they will be solved, more so when the fishermen will return to the shore frequently in spring. 
The plan to visit a butcher and organic farmhouse the next morning sadly had to be cancelled due to my imperfect condition. Rested up until noon before heading out to Dylan’s house in Helston. We had already scheduled to go on Dylan’s dad Chris’ boat the next day. The misfortune in timings had not permitted Chris and I to go fishing together yet, despite numberless times Dylan had taken me aboard onto several different boats. It was like one of my dearest dream coming true.
On arrival that night, I was welcomed by exceptional quality spider crabs, prepared and steamed by Dylan himself in his atelier. Once I started on the crabs, I could not refrain myself from chowing down, and while Dylan’s wife Mutsuko prepared salad and other accompaniments, I tucked in 2 whole crabs in no time. Spider crab has a distinctive flavour that varies from one to another, and those seen in restaurants’ fish tanks, often lined up by the Mediterranean coast, are far from edible. Being judged and selected by professional eyes like Dylan’s, the crabs were undoubtedly as rich or even richer in “Kanimiso” (crab innards) than those from Japan, and an extra robust wildness hinted in the meat.
I was up and about by 4.00am the next morning and ready to board Lady Hamilton. The bay where the boat is moored does not offer any port facilities, and all equipment first needs to be loaded onto small boat in order to be transferred onto Lady Hamilton, anchored on the shore. Considering the amount of fishing tools, ices, and also captured fish if on the way back, I salute the crew endure the routine every single day.
First, we pulled up the gill net that was set in shoal the night before; only crabs and a few unimpressive numbers of fish had been caught, along with tons of jellyfish that interfere with fishing. According to Chris, jellyfish was not to be found locally before, however similarly to the situation in the coast of the Japan Sea in recent years, upsurge occurred mysteriously. “Could it be related to global warming?”; such thought crossed my mind.
After re-setting the net back into the shoal, we headed to haul the net at a deeper point. The result was indifferently disappointing and only caught a countable number of pollack, haddock, etc. This spot, too, had jellyfish hindering.
Upon returning to the point in the shoal, we once again hauled the net that had been set for about 3 hours. Unexpected from the earlier result, the net was filled with a plenty of fish this time, and diversely coloured fish, such as pollack, haddock, cod, lemon sole, red mullet, streaked gurnard and john dory, have filled the captivity tank. Chris was simply delighted for the fortunate turn of event; that  significantly contradictory result could occur just after 3 hours of laying the net, from the exact point where the overnight set miserably failed previously. However what amazed me more was his nonetheless positive and firm attitude to re-set the net in that precise location, by believing the possible positive outcome based on tide movement as well as calculated time flame and his instinct coming from years of experience. I encounter similar events while I’m out fishing for my hobby, and I reckon having the ability to read and predict the vast nature can equal to the very primary joy of fishing, yet only experience can bring such skill.
Experience, knowledge, and luck that can change the game completely in one turn; for all of these dynamics, fishing can continue to entertain.
I send my heartfelt gratitude to the friendly crews of Chris’ and the family who always gives me warmest welcome.
 Cornwall の小生産者を支援している団体、Cornwall Food & Drinkからの依頼があり、ロンドンの若手有名シェフと地元の漁師を集めて活けジメのデモンストレーションをしてきました。
Padstowは魚で有名な街ですが、私は傍を通りながらもまだ行ったことがなく、きれいな街と聞いていたので楽しみでした。
土曜日に仕事から帰宅したのが夜中の2時前、仮眠をとって8時に車をピックアップに行ったのち、Padstowに到着したのは既に3時半になっており、参加者は皆、既に集合してロブスターハッチェリーの見学に行った後でした。4時からデモンストレーションと聞いていたのでそのまま会場のレストランで用意にかかり、港での記念撮影の後、ロンドンから生かして持ってきたTurbot(石ヒラメ) を使って活けジメのデモンストレーションをしました。   
デモの後のディスカッションの時、漁師と流通を作るメンバーの間で“漁の後、いかにしたら魚を生きたまま港に持って帰れるか、またはロンドンまで運べるか”ということを真剣に考えてくれました。日本と違って船にもともと生簀が無いこと、輸送のノウハウが無いことなど、課題は多くありますが、春になって海に頻繁に出られるようになったとき、少しずつでも試していってもらうことに期待し、常に連絡を取り合うことを約束しました。
翌日は近郊にある有機農家と精肉業者を訪ねる予定でしたが、朝起きた時、調子が今一つで私は昼まで休み、HelstonDylanの家に行きました。翌日にはDylanのお父さん、 Chrisのボートに乗せてもらうことに決まっていました。今まで幾多のボートに乗せてもらっていてもいつもタイミングが悪く、Chrisとは今回が初めてで、やっと念願が叶いました。

着いたその日にはDylanが工房で蒸したてのスパイダークラブの雄の飛び切りのものを用意しておいてくれました。奥様のMutsukoさんがサラダなどを用意してくれている間、たまらずカニにむしゃぶりついたらあとは止まることを知らず、大きなカニを2杯平らげました。スパイダークラブの味は非常に個体差があり、特に水槽に入ったものをよく地中海沿岸の観光地のレストランで見るものは食べられたものではありません。Dylan家のようなプロフェッショナルに選んでもらったものの、たっぷり入ったカニみそは日本産のどのカニのものよりも美味しく、野性味のある身も非常に地味深いものです。
翌日は朝4時に起き、Lady Hamilton に乗りました。Lady Hamiltonが停泊している入江に港は無く、すべての荷物をまずは小型ボートに乗せて沖に停泊させているボートに積みなおさな
ければなりません。積み込む漁の道具、氷、帰りには獲った魚まで、毎日この作業をしているということを考えると本当に頭が下がります。
前日の夜に浅場(60m前後)に仕掛けておいてくれた刺し網をまず引き上げましたがあまり思わしい収穫はなく、カニと少しの魚だけでした。それにも増して、多くのクラゲが入っており、漁の手を邪魔します。Chris曰く、以前は全く見られなかったということで、その大量発生は日本海沿岸の定置網でも近年起こっていることなのでとても不思議なことです。世界的な温暖化のせいでしょうか。
その後、浅場の網を打ち直した後、深場(80m前後)に仕掛けた網を上げましたが、やはりそれほどの収穫はなく、Pollack(タラの仲間), haddock(スケトウダラ)などがぱらぱらと獲れただけでした。またも多くのクラゲに邪魔されます。
 元の浅場のポイントに戻り、3時間ほど前に入れた網を再び上げると今度はたくさんの魚が上がってきました。Pollack, Haddock, Cod(タラ), Lemon sole(カレイの仲間), Red mullet(ひめじ), Streaked gurnard(ホウボウ), John dory(マトウダイ)、大きなサバなど、色とりどりの魚でボックスはいっぱいになりました。一夜仕掛けていた網にほとんど入っていなかったのに同じポイントでもほんの3時間でいっぱいの魚が入ったことにChrisも本当に喜んでいましたが、その可能性を潮の流れや時間で読み取って的確に再度網を仕掛けた彼の経験と勘には驚かされました。そういったことは私の趣味の釣りでも良くあることで、自然を読み解くことそのものが釣りの楽しさであると同時に経験が全てです。経験、知識、そしてそれ以上の運に左右される、だから面白いのが釣り、漁です。
Chrisのボートに乗った優しいクルー達、いつも温かく迎えてくれる家族の皆様、いつも心から感謝しています! 

2014年10月22日水曜日

Eel release in Lake Llangorse Wales and Japan400 Plymouth festival ウェールズLlangorse湖でのウナギ稚魚の放流と日英友好400年記念フェスティバルでの“活けジメ”プレゼンテーション

 

Despite that the season of wild salmon and elver ended early this month, I decided to join a charity project to release eel into nature hosted and invited by Dai, a leader of fishermen supplying mentioned fish to Umu and also a proprietor of salmon farming company.

Elver caught in a net in early spring are taken care of in fish preserves until grown healthfully until appropriate size, which then are released to a lake in Wales, where eel is known to be extinct due to excessive fishing by the landowner. The project, which had begun few years back, already started showing positive results.
Regretfully Japanese eel has recently been registered as an endangered species due to excessive fishing of both full-grown and juvenile fish. Wild eel also continues to decrease in number around Europe, yet few volunteers such as Dai’s organization devote to actualize concrete plans to preserve the nature while sufficient number of larva still exist in the wild. Moreover, strict regulations are casted upon eel fishing including the elver fishing I once tagged along with Dai. The fishermen respect and follow the regulation, and such approach teaches me many things, setting me an example of a fisherman from an island nation. The contributions we can offer as one restaurant is limited, thence being able to be a part of the project was a privilege as well as a pleasure to us.
In addition, since our head chef Masato Nishihara, a friend of mine of 20 years’ standing who I lived under the same roof with during my time at Kitcho, had instated the current position almost 3 years ago, we did not get an opportunity to have same off days due to our respective roles. This time, upon many requests and invitations, we finally grasped a rare chance to have a short trip together. We laughed and enjoyed the whole trip, almost taking us back to 20 years ago when we used to visit potteries and farmers as young minds.
Left London at 1 a.m. after the dinner service on Thursday and arrived at Dai’s home around 4 a.m. while it was still dark around. Honey-coloured walls and straightly-lined roofs, the house had the charm unique to the specific part of country. After a brief nap in the beds that were readily made for us, we headed to Lake Llangorse in Wales by Dai’s car.
By the time we arrived at the lake, a team of staff from Dai’s company, Severn & Wye Smokery, was busy preparing set-ups for barbeque and eel larva for the main event. A group of children arrived in coaches after a short while, who then enjoyed hot dogs we’d given out before splitting onto a few boats and heading to the lake for releasing the elver. 
We prepared Chirashi Sushi with eel and salmon provided by the company while the kids were away for rough one hour and a half. Preparing sushi for great number of people simultaneously is never easy, especially with minimal equipment, yet I must say I relished contrasting environment under the clear, blue sky.
The kids observed with amused eyes and shot out many questions while Masato was handling the eel. The almost transparently pure smiles and energetic laughter, along with simple words of appreciations coming back from each one of the kids while we distributed freshly made sushi, we felt our hearts being soothed.
After the children had departed, we were invited onto the boats to go release remaining fish. My mood was lifted by watching the baby fish swam freely into the wild of lake one by one, leaving me somewhat uncannily refreshing feeling, as if it was I swimming into the nature.
The fishermen who helped at the event, specializing in traditional salmon fishing, showed an interest to Ikejime fish preserving technique I am extending around the UK, and as a consequent, I demonstrated the method on the leftover salmon. Conversely, their specialized miniature fishing boat had me smitten, and we promised to go fishing together next spring when the season begins.
Though the hard schedule from the morning the day before had inevitably exhausted me, I still manage to slip a nice dinner with game meat at a restaurant nearby Dai’s home before I was fell into deep sleep back in the room.
Got up at 6 a.m. next morning and made our way to Plymouth for the next event. On the way, we caught a glimpse of beautiful Autumn-coloured Exmoor National park embraced in the morning mist.
Arrived in Plymouth earlier than expected, we managed to tour around the festival. The festival named “Japan 400 Plymouth”, celebrating the 400 years history of Anglo-Japanese relations, is co-organized and supervised by the governments from the both ends and Plymouth University. Ceremonial arrival of a sailing ship into the Sutton Harbour where the first homecoming ship returned, a symposium held by recognized intellectuals at the University, stage performances of Japanese drum Taiko and Shamisen, and introductions to Japanese cuisine and Sake were on the itinerary.
While waiting for my turn for the presentation, I wandered through a port to conversed with local fishmongers and fishermen. The small-scaled, traditional fishing is also practiced by a few among them, and I believe many encounters would link to prospective supports in the future.
The presentations were presided by a renowned chef Peter Gorton who recently endeavoring to nurture young chefs. Following the introduction of Ikejime, demonstrated a preparation of sashimi, and concluded with plentiful inquiries during Q&A session.
To successfully return to the restaurant by the dinner service, we ran through the whole 820miles/1320km journey back to London. Masato surprisingly filled this entire trip with humorous stories, who was always fast asleep every time on the passenger sheet for the last 20 years, yet amused me again by dozing off right after we entered London off the highway where I most needed a navigation. I truly enjoyed the trip to every last bit.


今月初旬にシーズン終了となってしまいましたが当店で使っている天然鮭、ウナギの稚魚(Elver)の漁師の親玉であり、Faroe諸島で味の良い、健康的な鮭の養殖会社を経営しているDai氏からのかねてからのオファーで彼らの慈善事業の一つであるウナギの放流プロジェクトを手伝ってきました。
彼らは春先に網で獲った稚ウナギを自社の生簀である程度の大きさになるまで育て、領主の乱獲により絶滅してしまったというWalesにある湖に数年前から計画的に放流し、既に成果を上げています。
残念ながら最近、日本では、成魚、稚魚ともに乱獲しすぎてしまったがゆえに日本ウナギは最近絶滅危惧種にまで指定されてしまいました。ヨーロッパウナギも減少の一途ではあるものの、まだまだ稚魚が自然界に十分存在するうちに彼らのようなボランティアが自然を守ろうと具体的に活動しています。以前Dai氏に同行させてもらったウナギの稚魚漁にしても厳しい漁業規制の中で常に自然界での絶対量をコントロールさせており、成魚漁も常に規制をかけています。漁師はそれを厳密に守っており、日本人として見習わなければならないことがたくさんあると感じます。いちレストランで出来ることは限られたことですが、彼らの素晴らしいプロジェクトを少しでもお手伝いができるということは私たちにとっても嬉しいことです。
吉兆時代から同じ釜の飯を食べていた20年来の付き合いがある西原理人が当店の料理長になってから3年間、お互いの立場上、一緒にお店を開けることができず、いつも休みは別の日にとっていましたが今回は各所からの要望もあり、やっとのことで彼との、短いながらも2人旅が実現しました。20年前、京都から休みを利用して陶芸家や農家を廻った昔にすっかり戻った気分で心の底から笑い、楽しむことができました。
木曜日の営業をこなし、夜中の1時にロンドンを発し、まだ辺りは真っ暗な4時頃、Dai氏の家に着きました。Cotswoldsのはずれにある、この地方独特のはちみつ色の壁とスレートの屋根、とても趣のある素敵な家でした。用意してくれていたベットに直行、数時間の仮眠ののち、彼の車で ウェールズのLake Llangorseに向かいました。
到着するとすでにDai氏の会社であるSevern & Wye smokery のスタッフがバーベキューや稚魚放流の準備を進めており、しばらくすると観光バスで児童たちが到着しました。彼らにホットドックを配った後、それぞれのボートに分乗し、湖にウナギを放流に行きました。
1時間半ほどで帰ってくるまでの間に、彼らの会社が提供してくれたウナギとサーモンを使ってちらし寿司を作りました。最小限の設備の中で 大人数分の寿司を作るのは大変でしたが、青空の下、いつもと違った雰囲気の中で楽しむことができました。
理人がウナギを捌いたりしている間、子供たちは興味津々といった様子でいろいろなことを聞いてきます。出来上がったお寿司を配っているときもそうでしたが、子供は皆、透き通ったきれいな笑顔と元気な声、すべての子供から帰ってくるお礼の言葉など、こちらの方が心から癒されました。
子供たちが返った後、私たちがボートに招待され、残りの稚魚の放流をさせてもらえました。湖に向かって元気に泳ぎだす姿を一匹一匹見ていると私の気持ちが泳いでゆくような、不思議で爽やかな気持ちになりました。

イベントを手伝っていた鮭の伝統漁をしている人達が私が英国の漁師に広めている活けジメに非常に関心をもってくれ、残ったサーモンを使って彼らに目の前で活けジメの説明をしました。彼らの伝統漁で使っている特殊な超小型ボートの話は私も興味をもち、来春、シーズンが来たら必ず一緒に漁に行こうと約束をしました。
前日朝からの強行軍で正直疲れていましたが夜はDaik氏の家の近くのレストランで狩猟肉などを食べ、部屋に戻ってすぐに熟睡しました。


翌朝はまた6時に起き、次のイベントの目的地であるPlymouthに向かいました。道中、秋色になったExmoorナショナルパークは朝霧に包まれながらとてもきれいでした。

Plymouthには思いのほか早く到着し、フィスティバルの様子を見ることができました。“Japan 400 Plymouth”と名付けられたこのイベントは英日両国の政府とPlymouth大学の企画のもと、日英交流が始まった400年前、最初の帆船が帰港したPlymouthでの記念行事で帆船の入港式、有識者による大学でのシンポジウム、和太鼓や三味線などのステージ、日本料理やお酒の紹介などが行われました。
私のプレゼンテーションまでには時間があったので港を回り、地元の漁師や魚屋といろいろと話ができました。彼らのなかにも伝統的な小規模の漁をする方がいて今後に結びつくいい出会いがたくさんありました。
プレゼンテーションは現在若手の料理人育成に尽力している著名シェフ、Peter Gortonの司会のもと、活けジメの紹介ののち、刺身を作り、多くの聴衆からの質問コーナーで締めくくられました。 夜の営業に間に合うようにロンドンに戻らなければならず、合計820マイル、1320kmの道のりを走破しました。20年前からいつも、どこへ行くときも私の助手席で眠っていた理人は今回の旅ではずっと楽しい話を続けていたかと思いきや、最もナビゲーションの必要な高速道路を下りてからのロンドン市内に入ると同時に眠りに落ちるという芸当も見せてくれ、楽しい旅となりました。

  翌朝はまた6時に起き、次のイベントの目的地であるPlymouthに向かいました。道中、秋色になったExmoorナショナルパークは朝霧に包まれながらとてもきれいでした。

Plymouthには思いのほか早く到着し、フィスティバルの様子を見ることができました。“Japan 400 Plymouth”と名付けられたこのイベントは英日両国の政府とPlymouth大学の企画のもと、日英交流が始まった400年前、最初の帆船が帰港したPlymouthでの記念行事で帆船の入港式、有識者による大学でのシンポジウム、和太鼓や三味線などのステージ、日本料理やお酒の紹介などが行われました。
私のプレゼンテーションまでには時間があったので港を回り、地元の漁師や魚屋といろいろと話ができました。彼らのなかにも伝統的な小規模の漁をする方がいて今後に結びつくいい出会いがたくさんありました。
プレゼンテーションは現在若手の料理人育成に尽力している著名シェフ、Peter Gortonの司会のもと、活けジメの紹介ののち、刺身を作り、多くの聴衆からの質問コーナーで締めくくられました。
夜の営業に間に合うようにロンドンに戻らなければならず、合計820マイル、1320kmの道のりを走破しました。20年前からいつも、どこへ行くときも私の助手席で眠っていた理人は今回の旅ではずっと楽しい話を続けていたかと思いきや、最もナビゲーションの必要な高速道路を下りてからのロンドン市内に入ると同時に眠りに落ちるという芸当も見せてくれ、楽しい旅となりました。

2014年9月14日日曜日

Japanese Chef Elevates Washoku Worldwide



Japanese web magazine, Global manager feature an interview with me. My friend translate in English.

ウェイブマガジン、グローバルマネージャーにインタビュー記事が掲載されました。

Global manager
http://webmagazine-globalmanager.com/feature/07/18.html


Japanese Chef Elevates Washoku Worldwide 
 

 
A multi-talented chef in UK
spreads the spirit of Kaiseki and lifts Japanese cuisine to another dimension.

Yoshinori Ishii is the charismatic executive chef of UMU restaurant in London.
One wonders how he might convey Japanese cuisine to locals who have had no previous knowledge of the subject.  Yoshinori, who learnt Kaiseki culture in Kyoto and later worked overseas in Switzerland, the US, and England, explains the concept of this work, and his passion for Japanese cuisine. 

Profile of Yoshinori Ishii:

Executive chef at UMU, London
After graduating from the Abeno Cooking School in Osaka in 1990, he worked for the headquarters of Kyoto Kitcho, Arashiyama till he reached the position of sous-chef in 1998. While he studied English, he was engaged as a gardener at Seiho Takeuchi Museum and also started a catering service. In 1999 Yoshi was appointed as the embassy chef for the Japanese ambassador to the United Nations in Geneva. In 2002 he moved to New York on the same mission. In 2005, at the same time as the ambassador returned to Japan, he heard that his former horticulture mentor, Mr Masataka Higuchi, had been injured, and Yoshi decided to go back to Kyoto to support his farm.  In 2006 he returned to the US to oversee the special course menu at Morimoto restaurant.  He has received many awards including the Rising Star Chef.  In 2010, Yoshi moved to London as Executive chef at UMU restaurant.
 
Being a chef has made my dream come true 

The Japanese restaurant UMU is in the heart of London in Mayfair. Yoshinori Ishii works as the Executive Chef of the restaurant. 
He aimed to become a chef when he was a high school student and at that time dreamt of working abroad. After graduating from cooking school in Japan, he started his career at a long-established restaurant “Kyoto Kitcho” Arashiyama headquarters. There he was promoted to sous-chef, working there for ten years. He got a job as a chef at the Japanese ambassador’s residence and worked in Geneva and New York. He has held his current position at UMU since 2010.  
“I loved creating things myself through painting and sculpture when I was a student. My love of cooking came from the idea that I wanted to prepare fish with my own hands. At the same time, I had a dream of living abroad through using my own specific skills. When I graduated from school, I chose to work as a chef to enable me to follow my dream.” 
He made his dream come true by working as a chef at the ambassador’s residence and he enjoyed working overseas at last. However, looking back over those six years, he thinks that he was supported yet confined in his position, and something was missing. His real challenge started from that point. He wanted to make use of his experience. When he was trying to get a visa in the USA, Masaharu Morimoto, known as an Iron Chef, made him an offer. At chef Morimoto’s restaurant in New York, he was put in charge of the special course meals. Gradually he began to distinguish himself and was awarded Rising Star Chef and other accolades.
Three years later, he gained his US resident visa and he was looking for investors for his own project in order to move his career to the next stage, when he got the offer to become head chef of UMU restaurant in London, through his friend from Switzerland.
 
The art of handling fish passed onto the Celtic fishermen

After living there for seven years he left New York, and moved to a new world with lots of expectation. However, he was surprised by the difference between London and New York. The prime focus of dishes at UMU restaurant is Kaiseki. However, fresh fish, which is the most important element, could not be easily sourced.
At pop up restaurant at Frieze Master art show
“In New York, fish is sent by air cargo three times a week from the Tsukiji fish market in Japan. In addition they have local fish in New York, so I could work in a similar environment. However, London was completely different. They receive fish which wouldn’t be eaten even in staff meals in New York. I tried all kinds of middle suppliers, and I actually visited ports, but I couldn’t get fish with which I was happy. In fact, in England they don’t usually bring ice to fishing boats. In short, fish is taken from the boat as it is, and ice is added at the port. The fish is stored in the fridge, and brought to the fish market when the price has risen. The old stock goes first and fresher fish later. All middle suppliers work in the same way, so by the time we received the fish it was far from fresh.” 
Yoshinori looked for fishermen who customarily bring ice to the fishing boats. And finally he came to hear that there were Cornishmen of Celtic descent at the tip of the Cornish peninsula who treat fish carefully. Whenever he had time off, he drove for eight hours to build a relationship with them. 

“Although they treated fish very carefully, they have no knowledge of Japanese cuisine. They don’t have a transport system like we have in Japan, either. However, we can make an effort to bring the logistics closer to that of Japan.”

These problems decided him to teach Ikejime, the traditional Japanese method of fish preparation, and even showed the higher technique called Shinkei Jime. Yoshi was finally able to request that they perform Ikejime. He wanted to show them that all fish are treated with such care in Japan. Currently, Yoshi gets a call from the ship about the fish caught that day, and he chooses and orders the fish for the menu for the following day. The consistent communication between Yoshi and the fishermen made this possible. ‘Give 20, and get 10 returned’ is the philosophy Yoshi acquired living overseas.
 
“Personally, I do not talk a lot but, here, I learnt that verbal communication is key to everything.   Japan, we do not need to express ourselves that much, as people can read your mind and often silence is regarded as a virtue. Overseas, nothing can be understood unless expressed in words: to the staff, to the customers, and to the world.”


With head chef Masato Nishihara who was executive chef at Shojin cuisine restaurant NY. We worked together in Kitcho Kyoto long time. We pursue best created Kaiseki restaurant outside of Japan together.